In order to make the most of your trip it is essential to have an understanding of the Bulgarian culture and to appreciate how "Westerners" are perceived.

Bulgaria has tended to be regarded in the "West" as the poor relation of Russia - the satellite country on the edge of mainland Europe, offering cheap seaside package holidays to older travellers and cheap wine in supermarkets. Very little is known about the real Bulgaria and coverage in the media has been minimal.

Bulgaria falls somewhere between the two extremes - it has had a very difficult history with 500 years of Turkish oppression followed by Communist rule for the second half of this century. Since 1989 when the Communist regime was overthrown it has moved relatively slowly towards embracing capitalism. The State has been slow to take advantage of the potential for tourism on the Black Sea coast and mountain ski resorts. And with the exception of German and Scandinavian companies, it has been largely ignored by the Western countries which have moved so aggressively into the other previous Eastern Block countries.

This lack of action has left many Bulgarians feeling disillusioned and with a lower standard of living than under Communism - the average wage is US$100 per month with many families much closer to the poverty line. Younger, well-educated people are leaving the country - Bulgaria has a negative population growth factor, whilst older people are cynical about the prospects for change.

Given this background it is hardly surprising that Western visitors are regarded as being excessively wealthy and having a fabulous lifestyle.

When you do get to know your colleague or host you will find that Bulgarians are the most genuine and hospitable of people. As a nation they are well-educated, intelligent, intellectual and seem to have an endless source of knowledge on practically any topic.

You can have a wonderful time in Bulgaria as long as you remain aware of the background and avoid some obvious pitfalls:

• Don't flaunt your money - even if you think you are being kind in offering to pay for a meal, remember that Bulgarians are proud people. It is best to go to a restaurant of their choice rather than the 5* hotel restaurant which is out of their league.

• Don't keep referring to the cost of things "back home"

• Even if you think the roads or whatever are terrible don't keep saying it - your hosts are just as aware of it as you but feel frustrated because nothing is being done

• On a practical level there is one common problem which always arises - the use of "yes" and "no". Bulgarians usually shake their head for yes and nod for no, but not always and this can lead to no end of confusion. The best way is to discipline yourself to not move your head, to say "da" (yes) or "ne" (no) and to watch the other person carefully. Get it wrong and you will find yourself in a restaurant with another round of drinks to pay for.

And finally - if you are offered the chance to visit the mountains, countryside or Black Sea coast, please go. You will be amazed at how beautiful and unspoilt it is - there is a small population so it is uncrowded and peaceful.

Bulgaria is a country of opportunity - we hope you enjoy your visit and will want to persuade other people to try it for themselves.